Though I’ve only visited once, like to name Shoreditch as the home of the world’s cheapest and most pleasantly consumed bagels. It’s a dynamic place- woven through Brick Lane is the smell of curries, danishes and the unique scent of leather. The latter can be attributed to independent designer Tania Sutedja, who began her leather design business under the same name in 2014.
“5 years ago, when I helped my friend selling her clothing line in Backyard Market, Brick Lane, I thought 'why can’t I make something and sell it here too?'”, she explained.
As someone who “just loves watching people doing something”, Tania has been captivated by makers and creators since she was a teenager. This even extends to watching the process of her nail technician!
With these motivations, Tania was anchored in ambition and enrolled in five, week-long classes at London College of Fashion, learning the basics of production and design. These nine to five classes were, as she explained, brief, but extremely useful for ascertaining skills.
It was here that Tania met someone who kindly allowed her to work in their studio, and before long she landed a job as a machinist for a well-known London brand.
“This lasted for ten months before they closed down their big factory and sold some of their machines to me”, Tania wrote. As it often goes with boutique businesses, Tania’s desire to excel at her craft slowly led to a brand, trademarked by contrasting textures, gentle stitching and contemporary colour-blocking. Though she never imagined herself as a bag-maker or designer, the delicate balance of rawness and refinement in her products affirm Tania has really found her niche.
Ever-changing, the trends of East London (where her studio and store are located), often inspire Tania’s new designs. “Sometimes I get inspiration from customers or just random people who visit the market”. Observation of people, their movements and nuanced style is vital for any designer. The vulnerability in such an industry means a strong relationship must be formed between your products and the desire of customers. “Try to becreative”, Tania suggested. “Don't make things that are already out there and try to be open-minded… do something new. Make and sell what customers like, not just what you like”.
This sounds rather daunting to someone like myself, as it seems to dismantle the desire to fulfil only personal artistic pursuits. Yet, Tania bluntly assured listening closely to customers is the best way to work. “Do more research so you know what is out there. When you fail, it doesn't mean you are not good, it may just not be your lucky day. If your business is not improving for 6-12 months and you are losing money, stop, reflect, change methods or businesses and move-on”.
A tension perhaps arises when looking at current social debate around the leather industry. For Tania, though, quality remains her primary concern. “I am sticking with leather because of its durability. 95% of (my product that I get is) from Italy, shipped directly from the supplier. Another 5% I get from a supplier in London, who got his leather from all over the world, mainly (again) from Italy”.Whilst pineapple leather is available as an alternative, this actually uses more water to manufacture than the traditional animal product, is less durable and is far more expensive. Though Tania is very respectful of those not wanting to purchase animal products, she also made the important argument that as we already consume the animal, we shouldn’t just waste the skin.
And in my opinion, she’s right- why not turn what would otherwise be discarded into a beautiful product.
Tania’s passionate launch into the world of independent design has come with its’ fair set of challenges. You simply have to learn from them and keep going though, she explained to me. “Learning by doing, basically”. Her kind nature and humility are probably reason enough to the support the label of Tania Sutedja. In conjunction with this, her products are both eye-catching and laden with quality. They’re precious investments to last a long time. You can find her online under the same name, or in her store within Rinse Showrooms, Bricklane, Shoreditch.
all photographs property of Tania Sutedja taniasutedja.com